One noticed its precocity as early as the
flowering which took place fifteen days ahead of the average
dates of recent years. This early start was accentuated
by the heat of June, July and August.
In spite of the June heat with temperatures 5°C above
normal and the sweltering month of August with more than
6°C above the usual, the vines did not suffer from
drought. Indeed, the rain count for the three summer months
was totally normal.
Thanks to this extreme heat and no stress from drought,
we began to pick the white grapes on August 13th. (It
was 41°C/106°F in the shade.) Confronted with
these remarkable temperatures, we were obliged to take
extraordinary measures. We decided to start picking at
sunup and only pick in the morning in order to protect
the grapes and the pickers. We rented refrigerated trucks
to carry the grapes from the vineyard to the chai so
that the grapes would not overheat. We put at the disposal
of the pickers a car with fresh drinking water. The first
day, more than 3 liters per picker were consumed.
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We continued the picking on the 14th and 15th. Those grapes
became our two principal wines, Haut-Brion white and Laville
Haut-Brion.
The picking of the red grapes began with the merlot on
August 25th with a much more temperate climate of only
32°C/90°F. Due to the extreme heat, the grapes
were very small, which explains the lesser amount of wine
made. (The harvest was 20% less than the previous year.)
However the tiny, thick skinned grapes permitted us to
make exceptionally rich and rounded wines.
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After picking the merlots we carried on with the cabernet franc
(between the 5th and 9th of September) and then moved on to the
cabernet sauvignon, finishing the harvest on September 15th.
The paradox of this summer of heat waves is that we have been
able to produce wines of extreme freshness. The tannins are ripe,
perfectly ripe. There is not a trace of over ripeness which at
times can render the wines lackluster. In fact, it is when the
grapes are picked at perfect maturity that one obtains the greatest
complexity.
The tannic concentration that we have in the wines (the highest
that we have ever had) has produced wonderfully structured
wines with incredible length in the mouth.
As we write these few lines, we are presenting our wines to
the professionals of the wine world. The words that are repeated
most often are: complexity, freshness, fruity, structure, tannic
and length. These wines are a delight in the mouth. There is
no doubt that they have the potential to become very great wines
with longevity.
In as much as we have experienced an exceptional climate, the
wine is also exceptional and unique. It is a 2003 and it is impossible
to compare it to any other previous vintage. The paradox of this
vintage is more evident in the whites where, in spite of the
heat, we have produced one of the greatest white wines in many
years.
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Faced with the potential and very great quality that is
possible with this vintage, and because of the small amount
produced, the professionals have come in droves this year
to Bordeaux. At Haut-Brion, we will receive more than 700
people this week and eventually more than 1000 in total.
In principle, the number of visitors that come to us at
this time of year is proportionate to the quality of the
vintage… And finally, in order to give you a better
idea of what it is all about, please find below our first
tasting notes for 2003.
Jean-Philippe Delmas
Pessac, March 29, 2004
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